Best Computer for Photo Editing [2020 PC BUILD]

CG Director Author Asher Stephenson  by Asher Stephenson   ⋮   ⋮   38 comments
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Best Computer for Photo Editing [2020 PC BUILD]

While photo-editing software has become incredibly portable, it’s hard to deny the value of a proper workstation for professional work. The right setup won’t make you a better photographer, but it will help you edit faster and spend more time behind the camera.

This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about building a computer, taking a deep dive into the monitor choices, storage configurations, and color proofing environments that photographers need.

Who This Guide is For

With the rise of cellphone photography, the hardware requirements for casual photo editing have dropped significantly.

Smartphones shoot RAW, cheap sensors have amazing high-ISO performance, and adaptive algorithms have streamlined workflows that used to be tedious, all while consumer screens continue to use the same undemanding colorspaces.

A lot of what we’ll cover in this guide can be generalized to image manipulation and digital painting workflows, but it’s definitely biased towards photographers with high-fidelity print production workflows.

This guide is aimed at professionals, or at least professional budgets, and it won’t follow the mold of our more generalized build guides. If photography isn’t a large part of your creative wheelhouse, some of the things covered in this guide won’t apply to you. Photo Editing Computer Environment

This guide assumes that you work with large volumes of data, editing and proofing print resolution images in high bit-depth formats, and that you care about precise color matching — things you genuinely need a workstation for.

If you’re a hobbyist, or even a new professional, don’t let the advice you’re about to read upstage your core priorities. We’ll get into pixel-sniffing territory in a few places, but I’ll do my best to flag the stuff that only applies to those with studio-tier budgets.

What bottlenecks Photo Editing & Processing

Images are spreadsheets full of integers (most of the time). The data they contain isn’t complex at a granular level, and it’s formatted in a way that makes programmatic manipulation easy.

Simple adjustments to small photos can be done quickly on relatively slow hardware, and even advanced filters run on what amounts to a control mask and highschool calculus.

Photo editing gets demanding fast, though, once you start working at production resolutions and bit depths.

Professional image editing is computationally intense and inherently RAM-hungry, as the sheer number of calculations involved increases geometrically. Ample RAM and fast SSD’s for working drives and scratch disks are key.

RAM needs per Photoshop Layer

Resolution (Megapixels)8bpc10bpc16bpc32bpc
8MP24 MByte30 MByte48 MByte96 MByte
12MP36 MByte45 MByte72 MByte144 MByte
16MP48 MByte60 MByte96 MByte192 MByte
20MP60 MByte75 MByte120 MByte240 MByte

A strong GPU is important for 4k+ production pipelines, and most image processing programs use GPU acceleration for display rendering, zooming, and navigation, but the bulk of the actual processing happens on the CPU.

Programs like Lightroom perform wonderfully on processors with strong single-thread performance, and they’re built to take advantage of multi-threading, but the overall processing load favors balanced processor designs.

Secondary Hardware for Photo Editing & Processing

While good hardware won’t improve bad editing techniques, the right setup can make bad edits easier to spot.

The things we’re going to look at next — wide gamut monitors, color calibration tools, and advanced data management configurations — are fairly specific to photo editing, but they’re important for professionals.

Wide Gamut Monitors

The Adobe Wide-Gamut RGB color space covers 77.6% of the CIELAB reference color space.

The most commonly used color space, sRGB, only covers 35.9%. The DCI-P3 color space, a cinematic projection standard that has become popular among cell phone manufacturers, only covers 45.5%.

Color Gamut - Best PC for Photo Editing

Image-Source: Viewsonic

Camera sensors are capable of capturing color ranges far wider than screens and printers can reproduce. Shooting RAW and “editing down” to a particular display medium is standard practice for most photographers, but it isn’t the easiest thing to do when you can’t see the colors you’re working with.

Using a wide color gamut monitor for accurate editing, and then a reference display and/or test prints in order to ensure consistent color conversion later on, can make your workflow more efficient and your end product more consistent, but it won’t make on-location color checking or pre-publication proofing any less important.

If you’re a professional photographer, I’m going to recommend a wide-gamut monitor. If you’re a hobbyist, it isn’t mission-critical. If you’re on a tight budget and you have to choose between performance and accuracy, it’ll depend on the kind of work you do and what hardware you already have.

Screen Color Profilers

Non-photographers might scoff at the idea of spending a few hundred dollars on an external calibration device, but screen calibrators aren’t the camera junky’s version of harmonized audio cables. They’re niche tools designed to help photographers maintain consistent multi-display and/or multi-device editing environments, but they do what they’re designed to do.

Computer monitors tend to prioritize pleasing color renditions over accurate color renditions, which means they tend to be punchier, brighter, and more saturated than you’d want for photo editing.

Screen profilers help you work past the knee-jerk desire to make things look good when ‘good’ isn’t the goal. As someone who happens to be partially colorblind (protanomalous), being able to calibrate a screen without having to rely on my own vision is nice.

Monitor Calibration

Image-Credit: xRite

That said, I don’t see them as mandatory purchases. They’re useful, especially when you’re working with monitors from multiple manufacturers, and I’ve had a great experience using X-Rite’s i1Display, but I won’t tell you to cut corners elsewhere in order to fit a calibrator into your budget.

Hyper-Convenient I/O

While fast SSD’s have an impact on the editing and managing side of things, there’s more to a proper storage configuration than speed and capacity.

You need to get your photos off your camera, sort them, tag them, make them accessible to both yourself and your clients, and do it all in a way that doesn’t take you away from your main work for too long.

A smart combination of card readers, case I/O choices, and network infrastructure can turn this inescapable intermediary step into an incredibly simple one, if you plan it all out. There are a number of ways you can tackle this, and we have a definitive guide to storage configurations in the works.

Building Your Photo Editing Workstation


While image editing doesn’t have the same processor demands as, say, animation or visual effects, the demand does scale with resolution. Intel processors have been the traditional pick for most Adobe software suites, but that dynamic has changed with AMD’s latest offerings.

Puget Systems ran a series of CPU benchmarks back in July that specifically targeted Photoshop performance, and they wrote a solid CPU performance round-up for Lightroom classic more recently. If you want to get into the nitty-gritty, both are worth reading.

CPU NameCoresGhzPhotoshop ScorePriceValue
AMD Ryzen 7 3800X83.91027399
AMD Ryzen 9 3900X123.81040499
AMD Ryzen 5 3600X63.8925249
Intel i9 9800X83.8841589
AMD Ryzen 7 2700X83.7813251
Intel i5 9600K63.7881262
AMD Ryzen 5 2600X63.6785149
Intel i9 9900K83.61026488
AMD Ryzen 7 3700X83.6964329
AMD Ryzen 5 360063.6915199
Intel i9 9700K83.6931362
AMD Threadripper 2920X123.5811369
Intel i9 9900X103.5903989
Intel i9 9920X123.59171189
AMD Threadripper 2950X163.5815729
Intel i9 9820X103.3845889
Intel i9 9940X143.38931387
Intel i9 9960X163.19011684
AMD Threadripper 2970WX243.07471300
Intel i9 9980XE183.09141979
AMD Threadripper 2990WX323.07441699
CPU NameCoresGHzPhotoshop ScorePriceValue

The most relevant takeaway from Puget’s benchmarks is that high-end CPU’s aren’t necessarily the best choice for photo editing. Programs like Photoshop and Lightroom deliver the best performance when they’re paired with generalist processors, like the Ryzen 9 3900x or the Intel i9 9900K.

AMD Ryzen vs Intel CPU

These processors have high clock speeds, reasonable core counts, and mature processing architectures, delivering strong single-thread performance at an incredible price-to-performance ratio.

While a Threadripper can be a solid pick for a 3D-Artist, processors designed for rendering and data processing don’t offer the right balance of clock speeds and core counts for photo editing.

Paying a premium for features that Photoshop and Lightroom aren’t built to take advantage of would be pointless, no matter your budget.

CPU Recommendations


The right GPU for your photo editing workstation is the one built to support the monitor resolution you’re interested in working at. An entry-level GPU won’t be much of a bottleneck with sub-4k monitors, but you’ll need to spend more if you’re planning to invest in high resolution displays.

Graphics Card Connectors

Image-Credit: MSI

Either way, since you won’t be relying on the compute capabilities of your GPU, the CUDA versus OpenCL (Nvidia vs. AMD) debate isn’t as performance-critical as it can be in other circumstances. One could argue that Adobe has a tighter relationship with Nvidia than AMD, which can have an impact on video editing and 3D effects in Photoshop, but the value of that will ultimately depend on your workflow — and the differences still won’t be that significant.

Multi-GPU configurations aren’t that helpful for photo editing — you won’t see a significant benefit in editing or display performance, and your money is best spent elsewhere.

GPU Recommendations


Photo editing is memory-intensive, especially when you’re working with large image libraries. You don’t have to use a medium format camera to hit RAM bottlenecks in Photoshop or Lightroom, and pinching pennies on this front won’t help you in the long run.

In our RAM for Video Editing guide, Alex recommends 32GB (or more) of RAM for videographers who have a tendency to multi-task. The same goes for photo editing.

Can a disciplined photographer make do with 16GB? Absolutely. Is the hassle of closing background apps and waiting for Photoshop to pull data from your scratch disks worth the ~$70 you’ll save?

Not really.

Corsair Vengeance LPX

Image-Source: Corsair

While I probably wouldn’t recommend more than 64GB of RAM to the average photographer, I will recommend 32GB of RAM as a starting point for anyone with a reasonable budget.

RAM Recommendations


As CG Director’s resident data horder, my default storage configuration advice is largely based on my experience with photo and video editing in studio environments.

If you’re just starting out and your budget is limited, the SDD + HDD setup that’s recommended in most build guides should be fine. You won’t have a separate drive to use as a scratch disk and you won’t have any redundancy in your setup, but it’ll be serviceable in the short-term.

If you’re handling photos in volume, though — shooting full-time, shooting stock photography, or supporting multiple photographers — I’ll always recommend a multi-SSD configuration with a HDD for archiving, right out of the gate.

For the ultimate performance you can even consider an NVMe SSD. These are a bit more expensive than regular (SATA) SSDs, but many times faster.

Best SSD for Photo Editing

When it comes to external storage, my general recommendation for anyone who doesn’t have an established need to access their photos from multiple devices is to focus on internal storage first.

A NAS configuration is useful if you use multiple computers, work with other photographers, or have other media files you want to serve, but that convenience doesn’t come cheap or easy. Network attached storage is inherently limited by your local network, and consumer-oriented networking hardware will severely bottleneck your read/write speeds.

If you’re 100% committed to setting up a local network that can handle SSD NAS configurations with minimal bottlenecks, check out the 10GBe network hardware recommendations in the accessories section below.

Storage Recommendations


Even with everything we’ve already covered regarding monitors and colorspaces, this section’s a doozy.

Different photographers will give you different monitor recommendations. There are plenty of professionals out there that don’t use wide-gamut monitors, and there are just as many who’ll swear they can’t work without them.

Instead of making a flat recommendation for a particular color space or feature set, we’re going to cover the decision making process and where it’ll lead you.

For some, that’ll be a wide-gamut monitor; for others, it won’t be.

Assigning a Price-Point to Color Accuracy

If you’re a freshly minted photographer and you’re in a position where you have to choose between a better monitor and a better lens, get the lens. I’ll recommend a wide gamut monitor to an established professional without hesitation, but I won’t pretend the price point is viable for low budget workstations.

That said, a wide gamut monitor isn’t all that expensive compared to other photography equipment. If you’re in a position where you’re buying good glass, you can probably afford a halfway-decent screen.

Who Needs Color Accuracy the Most?

If you restore photos, shoot product photography, or work with clients who care about accurate brand color representation (event photography for universities, etc), a wide-gamut monitor should be an easy buy. You’re doing work where pixel-sniffing is an inherent part of the job and you can’t smell colors you can’t see.

8bit 10bit difference gradient color bit detph

Simplified Illustration of Bit-Depth on Monitors

If you’re shooting for audiences that are primarily viewing your photos on mobile devices, shooting subjects that don’t need strictly consistent color representation, and/or your clients don’t care as much about visual branding, don’t worry too much if a wide-gamut monitor doesn’t fit your budget. Should you get one eventually? Yeah.

Does it need to be a part of this build? Not necessarily.

How Much of Your Budget Should You Spend on a Monitor?

Dropping $500-$800 on a wide-gamut monitor isn’t unreasonable when you already have a workstation, but the math changes when you’re trying to put together a complete setup for $1400. You shouldn’t break the bank on a 4k wide-gamut monitor if you can’t afford a GPU powerful enough to drive it, but you should still get a screen that’s worth looking at.

General Monitor Recommendations

In general, though, you’ll want an IPS monitor that covers the full sRGB range, with wide viewing angles, a matte screen finish, and some sort of dead pixel guarantee from the manufacturer. Our monitor guide for creative professionals covers those bases in detail.

Monitor Viewing Angle

Image-Credit: benq

Other features to look for include minimal backlight bleed, a shroud if you’re editing in overly bright lighting conditions, and a VESA compatible mount for proper ergonomics.

Don’t worry about things like software-assisted contrast and color enhancement; you shouldn’t use those kinds of features in the first place. Grey-to-grey response times aren’t all that critical for photo editing, but they’re worth looking at if you’re a generalist.

Specific Monitor Recommendations

Case and Power Supply

Photo editing workstations don’t come with any inherently unique case or PSU requirements, but there are some factors to consider when it comes to I/O ports, form factor, and portability.

Photographers tend to work with a lot more external data, which inevitably means messing with card readers, USB hubs, NAS enclosures, network bridges, and the like.

Choosing a larger and/or less aesthetic case that has more I/O ports, or specifically integrating a high speed hub into your base build plan, can be a good idea.

External IO Section of a PC Case

Image-Credit: Phanteks

On the other hand, having worked in some fairly crowded studios, small form factor workstations can be incredibly convenient — they fit anywhere, they’re great for sit-stand setups, they can be used on-location when you’re working an extended shoot, and they cost less than a laptop with comparable specs.

The build process is more time consuming, you’ll have to pay closer attention to GPU lengths and CPU cooler sizes, and you’ll probably want to invest in an external enclosure for your hard drives, but the extra work can be worth it when you don’t have elbow room to spare.

When it comes to power supplies, the standard advice applies. An efficient modular PSU that meets your power requirements with some head room to spare will get the job done. Don’t cheap out, don’t re-use cables from other power supplies, don’t plug it into an ungrounded socket. Easy-peasy.

Corsair AX760W PSU

Image-Credit: Corsair

Case Recommendations

Small Form Factor
Mid-Tower (Standard-Sized Build)

PSU Recommendations


Rather than try to reinvent the wheel here, I’m going to defer to Jerry’s excellent motherboard guides for Intel and AMD processors. Photography workstations don’t differ all that much from other workstations in terms of motherboard requirements, although I would argue that photographer might place a slightly greater emphasis on Thunderbolt and USB 3.0 support.

Thunderbolt Support on x570 Motherboard

Thunderbolt Support on ASRock X570 Aqua


There’s a wide variety of peripherals marketed to photographers. Some of them, like monitor calibrators, are relevant enough to photo editing workflows that they’re worth considering in a build guide like this one. Others aren’t. We can’t cover all of the PC accessories photographers might need, but here are a few common ones.

Graphics Tablets

Graphics tablets are oddly common in photography studios, but they’re rarely critical accessories. Don’t worry about fitting one in your workstation budget if you don’t have a firm use-case.

Hardware Controllers

Knobs, faders, jog wheels, arcade buttons, modified MIDI controllers — if you can hook it up, someone’s probably found a way to control Lightroom with it.

Hardware controllers are unexpectedly popular among photographers in the same way that graphics tablets are, and the benefits are equally subjective. I’ll sing the praises of the weird collection of footswitches and macro pads I use on a day-to-day basis in other contexts, but I won’t pretend they’re worth including in a build guide for photographers.

Card Readers, Converters, and USB Hubs

If you’re a professional photographer, you probably have a drawer full of card readers and adapters. Who doesn’t? If you haven’t taken the time to coordinate (and prune) that haphazard collection, though, rolling that work into your workstation build plan isn’t a bad idea.

Reusing an old USB 2.0 hub or PCIe 2.0 internal card reader will create unnecessary bottlenecks in the least interesting part of your workflow. While extraneous input devices are decidedly non-critical, setting aside some money to refine and improve your data handling is a smart move.


Image-Credit: Aukey

A Thunderbolt 3 hub can be incredibly helpful; the transfer speeds are worth the price and you’ll see consistent performance from the rest of the ports and converters. An internal Thunderbolt card can also be a good idea, but you’ll have to pay attention when you’re buying your motherboard to make sure everything’s compatible.


NAS and LAN Hardware

If you’re looking for a backup career as a sysadmin, this section is for you. While most NAS manufacturers like to claim that their products are plug-and-play, they rarely deliver adequate performance that way.

If the hardware recommendations below sound completely alien, don’t worry — this video guide covers the basics. This setup won’t make your internet or wifi any faster, but it will have a huge impact on NAS performance.

A properly managed 10GBe network is amazingly robust; you’ll struggle to saturate your bandwidth, even in multi-user environments. Throw in a few laptop stations and a thin client for nearly-headless offloading, and you’ll be set to compete with enterprise networks.

LAN Hardware Recommendations
NAS Recommendations
‘Normal’ Network Hardware

If you haven’t upgraded your modem or router in a while and you’re looking to upgrade your studio network without going down the 10GBe rabbit hole, I’d strongly recommend looking into Ubiquiti.

Their switches and AP’s are rock-solid and their network management software is some of the best in the business. Running an EdgeRouter Lite with a UniFi Dream Machine is an easy way to set up a robust studio network without enterprise-scale overhead.

Example Builds

Best Computer for Photo Editing, ~700$ Build


Best Computer for Photo Editing, AMD oriented 12-Core, ~1800$ Build


Best Computer for Photo Editing, Intel oriented 8-Core, ~1700$ Build



That’s about it! What Photo Editing PC are you thinking of buying?

Find a new friend on the CGDirector Forum! Expert Advice & PC-Build Planning with a warm and friendly Community! :)

Asher Stephenson - post author

Hi, I’m Asher. I’m a technical writer, a tech journalist, and CG Director’s resident Blender nerd. If I’m not up a mountain somewhere, I’m probably tinkering with my PC setup.

Need help with a build? Let me know! I’ve been building workstations and gaming rigs for over ten years and I love troubleshooting.

Leave a comment below and I’ll do my best to help out!

Also check out our Forum for feedback from our Expert Community.

Tyler Wilson

Awesome post! Are these builds good for playing games and doing some video editing on?

Alex Glawion

Hey Tyler,
Yes they can also be used for Gaming and Video Editing. Though it depends on the type of your Games and the complexity of your Video Editing Projects.

If you are looking at playing some of the most recent Games at high frame-rates or want to edit 4K Video Projects, I suggest you lean towards the two more expensive example builds in this article.



Great post! I’m looking for maybe a new build; my current build is from 2009. Yikes! It’s still runs like a champ but I’m getting sort of limited. I’ve picked up astrophotography as a new hobby as of late but I’m still well in to gaming too. I’ve actually accidentally purchased games that my old rig just won’t run and stacking images takes quite a long time. (For reference, and please don’t laugh, my old rig has an AMD Phenom II X3 710, 8 GB PC3 8500 RAM, NVIDIA GeForce GTS250, all tied together on an ASUS M4A78T-E). At this point, pretty much anything would be an upgrade.

Would something like AMD oriented 12-Core,$1,800 Build laid out above be a decent, mid level gaming machine as well? I mean, it’s got a gaming card in it, right? If not, what you you recommend? I haven’t built a PC in over 10 years, so I’m a little bit dated (for example, I just recently found out about these fancy NVMe SSDs). Thanks for your thoughts!

Alex Glawion

Hey Mike,
Absolutely! Any decent Photo Editing Build would run most modern games quite well and the 12-Core AMD Build would run them very well as it also features a fairly strong GPU, the 2060 Super. Can recommend.

The Build also features a fancy NVME SSD which will increase any storage operations by a lot, so loading, saving images for example or booting the OS / starting some Software will be a breeze.



Thanks a million!!


Great article.
So, just to be sure…you are saying if I were to buy all of the components that you mentioned here, that they are 100% compatible, and I’m good to go? Parts List:

CPU: Intel i9 9900k 3.6GHz 8-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 chromax.Black
Motherboard: ASUS Prime Z390-A ATX LGA1151
GPU: Nvidia RTX 2060 SUPER 8GB – MSI Gaming X
Memory: 32GB (2 x 16GB) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3200 C16
Storage PCIe-SSD: Samsung 970 EVO PLUS 1TB M.2 Solid State Drive
Power Supply: Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 650W ATX 2.4 Power Supply
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 275Q ATX Mid Tower Case

Alex Glawion

Hey Jim,
Yes those components are all compatible and will run smoothly together. You still have to assemble the pc of course, but after that it’s good to go!

Cheers, 🙂


Thank you for your response, Alex. I have assembled 9 or 10 computers over the years, and I am ok with the build itself. My biggest concern is always if I have the BIOS set up to be the most optimal that it can be. I understand a little about BIOS choices, but there is a lot in there that I don’t know what’s the best choice.
Would you have any advice for me?
Again, thank you for your response.

Just fyi, I do a LOT of Photoshop. I have their CC monthly plan, so I use the current versions.
I am going to buy those components above and see how it goes.

Alex Glawion

Hey Jim,
Usually the BIOS is set up close to optimal by default. You might want to set XMP for the RAM so it runs at higher speeds, but that makes marginal differences. I can’t think of anything else that would have to be set and would improve the performance by much.

I’d say you’re good.



And hopefully lastly, I am planning on going with TWO terabyte of the SSD that you suggested above. But, I am a photographer and need more overall storage than 2T.
What would you suggest. In the old days, I used to use a bunch of HDD’s, then I went to SATA drives, but what do I do now? I’ve got like 6 or 8 T of storage that I need at any given time.
Is USB3 external drives any good? Or do I need to put something right on the mother board?
The 2T of SSD that I mentioned, that is for current stuff that I’m working on so that I have quick access to it, right?
Is the operating system and programs on that too?
Thanks. I’m almost ready to pull the trigger on buying all this stuff and I really appreciate all your help.

Alex Glawion

Yes you should have a drive for current/active work /which should be fast, an SSD optimally) and another slower/cheaper HDD for backup and archiving (or even multiple for redundant backups). This can be a Seagate Barracuda HDD which come in many sizes of up to 14TB I think.

Optimally you would seperate the OS/Apps from your Project Files. That way if the OS disc gets an error or breaks, your active project files are untouched.

So 1 ssd for os/apps. 1 ssd for project files. 1-2 HDD for backup/archiving. That is the optimal setip.


This will work? I wanted to get the 7200 rpm. Maybe later I’ll add one more.
Seagate Exos 7E8 8TB Internal Hard Drive HDD – 3.5 Inch 6Gb/s 7200 RPM 256 MB Cache for Enterprise, Data Center –

Also, what about NVMe?
Is this one you recommended, Storage PCIe-SSD: Samsung 970 EVO PLUS 1TB M.2 Solid State Drive, what I need to buy? I don’t really know about NVMe or what’s best.
I am going to buy TWO 1TB sticks.

That should be about it, Alex. Thank you so much for all your help.
I’m thinking I’ll have a kick ass machine after all this.
The price so far on amazon, without tax and free shipping is just under $2k.
It’ll be worth it. Does it sound that way to you, too?

Alex Glawion

Hey Jim,
Jup I often recommend the Samsung 970 EVO PLUS 1TB M.2 Solid State Drive they are quite good.

2K$ sounds about right. Jup the machine will be kickass 😀


Ron Hudson

I need to build something for photography and time lapse. Photoshop and Lightroom, on 1 and a few others and whatever I find to do time lapse. SD and CF cards and large megapixels.
Thank you

Alex Glawion

Hey Ron, what’s your budget?

Here’s a Build for 1K$ which would perform well for photography workloads: Parts List:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8GHz 6-Core Processor ($249.95)
CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Spire Cooler (Included with CPU) (-)
Motherboard: ASRock B450 Gaming K4 ATX AM4 ($143.30)
GPU: Nvidia GTX 1660TI 6GB – Gigabyte Windforce ($257.59)
Memory: 16GB (2 x 8GB) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3200 C16 ($75.99)
Storage PCIe-SSD: ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 512GB NVME M.2 Solid State Drive ($74.99)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx Series RM650x 650W ATX 2.4 Power Supply ($125.00)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($98.99)
Total: $1025.81

Hope this helps!


Ron Hudson

Ales, thank you for the input. $1500 would be ok. Looking for something to last for awhile and work with the growing photography world.

Ron Hudson

Alex , are power hubs ok to use ? Right now I have 2 -4tb external HD need another one or two. One for more photos and for stuff ,also have a Epson p800 printer. Dang I’m to old to be this confused! Thanks for all your help.

Alex Glawion

Hey Ron,
I’m not entirely sure what you mean by Power Hub. Do you mean USB Hubs?

Those are fine to use. Just beware that if you run all of them at the same time, the bandwidth is split between all of them a you usually only have one cable run back from the hub to the pc.

So plug as many of your external usb devices directly into the pc (in the back or front) to get the most performance out of them.

Here’s a build for 1.5k$: Parts List:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3800X 3.9GHz 8-Core Processor ($299.00)
CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism Cooler (Included with CPU) (-)
Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming X570-Plus ATX AM4 ($281.33)
GPU: AMD Radeon RX 5700XT – Gigabyte Gaming OC ($360.79)
Memory: 32GB (2 x 16GB) G.Skill Ripjaws V DDR4-3200 C16 ($119.99)
Storage PCIe-SSD: Samsung 970 EVO 1TB M.2 Solid State Drive ($146.83)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx Series RM650x 650W ATX 2.4 Power Supply ($115.00)
Case: Fractal Design Define XL R2 Titanium Big Tower Case ($126.44)
Total: $1449.38


Ron Hudson

Thank you,


If future proof but expensive is the goal you have to consider an AMD Ryzen 3000 build on an ASRock X570 creator. The only way to get future proof fast I/O on a full size motherboard.

Thunderbolt 3 on board, PCIe 4.0 to actually use it and a fast M2 card (you can save here get a PCIe3 version and get a faster card later).

That way you are all set for Compact Flash Express imported via TB3 (40 Gbps which is currently card limited below that). Just buy whatever Ryzen 3K (3700x maybe) and graphics card you can afford after the motherboard. You also get 10GE thrown in.

Now I am all set for the future D890 or Z9 at whatever stupid megapixel/ fps they capture. I have also spent the GDP of a small country.

Alex Glawion

Thanks Chris, the ASRock X570 creator really does have some great I/O features. Have you done any 10GBe Home Ethernet setup? The main problem I see is that copper 10gb requires quite noisy switches because of the power draw. In an office this might be ok if you have a room where you can hide away the lan devices.



Thanks for the reply Alex.

You can now get fanless 10GE switches so it is becoming more realistic for the home. The 10GE stuff I use at work tends to be very loud.

I assume the only use a photographer would have for 10GE is NAS as for import TB3 would be preferable and we are some way from affordable 10Gbps uplinks to cloud storage from the home.

I just cannot justify the cost of NAS, maybe I am a luddite. So sadly the 10GE interface will sit unused on my PC. I guess a small production studio would have a use for it.

Paul V

i do photography on my free time and would like to be able to work on my own photos
can you help me with bulding a copmuter for this?
my budget is €1200

Hey Paul,

Thanks for dropping a line!

€1,200 is around $1,360 and some change and with that amount of money, you can get a build that will allow you to work on your own photos like the below:

Parts List:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3800X 3.9GHz 8-Core Processor ($328.97)
CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism Cooler (Included with CPU) (-)
Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Gaming X ATX AM4 ($169.99)
GPU: GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 2060 Super WINDFORCE OC ($399.99)
Memory: 32GB (2 x 16GB) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3200 CL16 ($138.99)
Storage PCIe-SSD: Samsung 970 EVO 500GB M.2 Solid State Drive ($99.99)
Power Supply: be quiet! Straight Power 11 1000W ATX 2.4 Power Supply ($145.27)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.99)

This build will cost you around $1,358.19 but you can expect task responsiveness from this build thanks to the Ryzen 7 3800X CPU and 32GB of RAM under its hood. The RTX 2060 Super graphics card on the other hand will take care of rendering tasks in case you need to use the GPU render engines. All in all, this build can be expected to be powerful enough for your photo editing needs.


Eddie Lopez

Hi. Any recommendations for something bought off the rack. My wife just starting doing photography and her own editing. $699 I bought a HP – 15.6″ Gaming Laptop – AMD Ryzen 5 2.1Ghz – 8GB Memory – NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 – 256GB Solid State Drive. Once she started editing it was slow as heck. Better to build off of this ie adding more ram, etc or any better offers that may be recommended.

Hey Eddie,

Thanks for asking!

While laptops are ideal for mobility and portability, they are not as easy to upgrade as their desktop counterparts. In your case, I think the best you can do is increase the RAM. Before doing this, you need to check first if your laptop supports a RAM upgrade. If your laptop does support a RAM upgrade, bumping up your RAM to at least 16GB will bring about a significant increase in performance. You might also want to check the type of SSD installed on your laptop. While SSDs of the 2.5-inch SATA variety are fast, the smaller form factor NVMe SSDs are faster and increase your laptop’s task responsiveness a bit.




Can you help me come up with a list of parts for a photo editing build?

The suggested $1800 builds in the article are way above my budget and I can only set aside about $1200 – $1300 for this.

Appreciate any help you can give me.

Hey Leonard,

Thanks for the comment!

Please see below for the build I put together for you:

Parts List:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3800X 3.9GHz 8-Core Processor ($328.98)
CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism Cooler (Included with CPU) (-)
Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming x570-Plus (Wifi) ATX AM4 ($199.99)
GPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 2060 KO ($299.99)
Memory: 32GB (2 x 16GB) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3200 CL16 ($149.99)
Storage PCIe-SSD: Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 Solid State Drive ($119.99)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx Series Platinum RM850x 850W Power Supply ($127.21)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.99)

This build will cost you around $1,301.14‬ but you can expect this to more than capable of handling your photo editing tasks. Expect a fast and smooth workflow thanks to the build’s Ryzen 7 3800X CPU and 32GB of RAM while the RTX 2060 graphics card will handle your GPU rendering tasks in the event you need to use the GPU render engines. All in all, this is a great build that will deliver the performance you need without burning a hole through your pocket.




Im looking at the new alienware laptop m15 R3 that comes out on May 21st 2020. Build specs:

10th gen I7 10750H 6 core or 10 gen I9 10980HK 8 core
1 or 2 TB SSD may a raid config?
Nvidia RTX 2070 super or Nvidia RTX 2080 super
OLED 4K screen DCI-P3 color gamut

your thoughts, and thank you for your time

Hey Kenneth,

Thanks for asking!

The Alienware m15 R3 looks good on paper specs-wise but of course, this will also depend on the configuration you choose. If you choose the top of the line configuration with maxed out specs, then you can expect the laptop to be a great performer. However, you also have to take into consideration the possible price of the laptop. Historically, Alienware laptops tend to cost a bit more than other laptops with the same specs so that is something you might want to look at.

If you have the means and really want that alien logo on your laptop, Alienware laptops are good options for gaming and content creation. However, if you want the best bang for your buck, I suggest that you look at other options from Asus, MSI, Gigabyte, and the like because I’m pretty sure you’d find something with specs as powerful as an Alienware without having to pay as much.




What do you think of the High-Performance Image Editing Build for $1.4K in this site

Is that good or do you have other recommendation?

Thank you…

Alex Glawion

Hey Melvin,
That build looks decent. I’d probably make sure though to get a better cpu cooler (dark rock pro 4) because the non-pro is not really any better than the boxed cooler that comes with the 3700x. 2TB of SATA SSD seems to be impractical too. I’d rather get a smaller drive and go with an nvme m.2 ssd for increased performance such as the Samsung 970 evo plus 1tb.

There are certainly better x570 motherboards out htere. I’d recommend going with either a MSI Tomahawk x570 (when it is released), Msi Unify, or Gigabyte Aorus Elite.

Hope this helps,


Thank you…

Can you recommend a good monitor? I’m looking to spend probably around $250 – $300

Alex Glawion

Hey Melvin,
Check out our Monitor Articles. In particular these two:

I can recommend the Philips 276E8VJSB which should be within your budget.


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